Hello! Down this page you will find some useful information and video regarding the embroidery and beading techniques. 

Preparation for Embroidery
Cross Stitch
Cross Stich
Line Stitches
Stalk Stitches
Attaching Beads
Traditional Round Hoop
Tapestry Hoop
Tapestry Hoop Holder
Hoop for Embroidery
Attaching Beads
Attaching Beads

Instructions for Embroidery

1. Preparation

Fabric and Chart

Find the center of embroidery by folding the fabric in four. It corresponds to the center of the chart, which is determined by two intersecting lines with arrows at the ends. Please note that the chart does not reflect the final size of the embroidery. The squears in the chart correspond to the checks on the fabric. Blank squears indicate parts with no embroidery (Fig. 1).


Skein of thread is made up of six threads. Please, use the strict number of threads specified on the chart to avoid threads shortage and to make your ready work correspond to the kit cover. Figure 2 shows what is "1-thread stitching" and "2-threads stitching."

2. Cross Stitch

It is easier to begin stitching from the center, moving toward the edges. At first, the basic stitches and half-crosses are made, and then additional - line stitches, French knots, etc. The working thread is fixed on the backside under the first few stitches (Fig. 3). Filling up the piece, finish the thread pulling it under the existing stitches in the same way. Do not make knots as they make the embroidery look uneven.

It is better to stitch in horizontal rows. At first apply stitches, moving in one direction, then going backwards, make upper ones (Fig. 4). For neat embroidery, follow the same order of upper and lower stitches. Thread tension in crosses should be equal and fairly loose to obtain the volume.

When moving from one embroidery fragment to another, do not broach the thread on the underside for more than 2-3 cm, otherwise the embroidery will ridge. The thread is better to be cut and fastened again on another fragment.
If you make a mistake, dissolve the stitches with a needle, because ripping them with scissors can damage the fabric.

3. Additional Stitches

Additional stitches are made in the last turn, over the embroidered crosses.

Line Stitches

These stitches are used for some details to make embroidery look more expressive. They are indicated by thin lines on chart.

They are performed by "back needle" method. The needle goes to the front side at point 1 and goes to the backside at point 2. Then it comes out from the backside at point 3 and returns on the front side to point 1, etc. (Fig. 5). Long stitches should be divided down into smaller 1-1.5 cm ones, strictly following the figure.

Stalk Stitches

They are performed form left to right by “Back Stitch” method. The needle goes in on the front side at point 1 and out at point 2. A needle with second stitch 2-3 comes out on the front side at  point 3 , the middle of the previous stitch 1-2, goes into the fabric at point 4 and out at point 5, coinciding with point 2 (Fig. 6).

Working thread should be always on one side. Do not change the thread direction during the work not to destroy the stitch structure. All stitches must be of the same size.

Pull the needle from the backside to the front of fabric. Twist the thread around the needlepoint (once for single wound knot, and twice – for a double wound). Pulling the thread, bring the needlepoint to the backside, departing 1 to 2 mm from the outgoing thread. Carefully pull the needle to the backside, while pressing knot with your thumb. Tighten the knot (Fig. 7).

Attaching Beads

Pull the thread into a needle and bring it to the front side of the embroidery. Strung a bead onto the needle and release it on a thread down to the fabric. Bring the needle to the backside at the same point to secure the bead on fabric (Fig. 8).

4. Laundry and Ironing

The finished embroidery should be washed in lukewarm soapy water, then gently squeezed out, and wrapped in a towel. Then allow it to dry straightened out. Iron the damp work faced down on a towel, without pressure, not to rumple the crosses on the front side and to let them keep their volume.

5. Design

Designing ready embroidery is a pure art. It has a significant meaning and should bring harmony to your work. It is important to choose the colour and size of the mat, and the style and material of the frame. The best way to do it is to visit a special frame shop. Enjoy your hobby!


Choosing a Hoop

A hoop is a necessary thing for every embroiderer. It evenly pulls the canvas in order to make stitches straight, and helps to avoid bias and canvas contractions.


The choice of hoops is vast nowadays, and each needlewoman can choose the most convenient variant to work with.


Traditional round hoop (Pic. 1) is perfect for small size or partial embroidery. It is easy to use and pulls the fabric well. Its compact size (diameter varies from 10 to 30 cm) allows to stitch wherever you want. The hoops are usually made of wood or plastic. It is hard to tell what kind is better; it depends on your personal preferences.


Another kind is a framed hoop, sometimes called tapestry hoop (Pic. 2). Usually it is used for larger size embroidery. The fabric is attached to such hoop at the top and bottom with pins or special plastic clips. The size of the hoop's framework could be different: 20x30, 30х30 cm, 45х30 cm, 50х35 cm, etc. You could order either kind in different sizes at Broderikunst Studio. 


There are some obvious advantages of such hoop. First of all the fabric does not get wrinkled or deformed, secondly, there is no need to rearrange the hoop. The negative point is that the fabric is stretched only to two sides, so the work's stretching must be good enough, requiring good skills from the embroiderer. And as tapestry hoop is larger, respectively, it weighs more and therefore is often used with special holders (Pic. 3).


Recommendations on Embroidery Technique Without Using of a Hoop


Keep the beads away from small children and pets (may be inhaled).


If your working space/table is covered with a cloth or another soft tissue, the risk of losing beads due to bouncing off and falling will decrease.


Use any natural thread (sewing thread, embroidery thread or other) preferably of light/neutral color for bead embroidering.


Do not use synthetic threads because after finishing your work it should spread on a soft towel and ironed with a hot steam on the backside.


The embroidery must not be washed.


Please, pay attention to the number on each bag of beads. This number corresponds to the number of a color on a chart printed on fabric.

If you are not using a hoop for your project you can try the following bead embroidery technique that doesn’t require a hoop. Black or white dots printed on a fabric show the places of needle input and output during the process of a bead’s sewing (Picture 1).


Embroider separate columns/or rows beginning at the bottom and rising to the top. The thread there could be fixed with a simple node (as in button sewing) and then go to the reverse direction (Picture 2).


Please note that the colors printed on fabric are conditional. Their purpose is to be well visible and thus to protect you from possible mistakes.

Good Luck!